The amphitheater stones are still warm from the day's sun as archaeologist Petra Horvat sweeps her flashlight across freshly uncovered graffiti. "This one says 'Marcus was here' in Latin - the Roman version of tagging," she laughs. But then the beam catches something more chilling: crude drawings of gladiators mid-battle, scratched into the walls by spectators 1,800 years ago.
Salona's new night tours reveal what daylight hides:
The climax comes in the underground chambers where gladiators waited to die. As your eyes adjust, you'll see the actual grooves from where they sharpened their swords. New this year: actors perform monologues based on real graffiti messages ("Tomorrow I fight Secundus. If you read this, I lost.")
Pro Tip: Bring a handkerchief - the tunnel where doomed prisoners were held still smells faintly of sweat and fear.
Step Into History First-Class
PrestigeFly books business class on Lufthansa's evening Munich-Split flights for perfect next-day touring. Our "Moonlight Special" includes a post-tour seafood feast at a secret vineyard inside the ruins.